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Anti-control programme – first aid for problems with your dog
How can we see if our dog is taking control, or, what are we doing wrong?
This programme is an extension on how we can recognise, and change the direction regarding misconduct in our dogs. For a more intensive therapy you require the assistance from a qualified and experienced therapist, or an animal conduct therapist. Please note, for a dog with an aggressive behaviour it is imperative to consult professional help.
False is:
Our dog totally ignores, or, lets us repeat several times commands before it reacts, when we want something from it. But, we accept what the dog wants, we stroke it, we give it treats and, when it is time to go out for a walk we are only to pleased to follow.
Correct is:
We stroke and give treats ONLY when we decide and NOT when our dog demands it from us. When it comes and prods you with its nose or makes similar provocation, then, without verbal comment, walk towards the dog so that it retreats. Send the dog away from you when you don’t wish its presence. You alone determine when and where contact takes place, including how long and in which art. In the first few days remove all forms of resources, including toys. The dog must be shown that the only time it can have access to “prey” is when you decide, and under full supervision.
False is:
The dog decides alone when and where it lies down for a rest, and nobody is allowed to disturb the dog. It is always first out of the house, up or down stairs, and jumps into/out of the car as soon as the door is opened, without being requested to.
Correct is:
Never step over a dog that is lying in your path, instead make the dog move out of the way. When you open the house door to go for a walk, you go first as this is your privilege and let the dog follow you. Never allow it to jump into/out of the car before you give it permission. You do not have to sit somewhere else just because the dog has decided to sleep in “its” favourite chair, and you do not want to disturb it, rather make the dog move. The dog must stay on its mat for at least 30 minutes per day, or as long as you determine. This area must not be in a strategic place, i.e. in the hallway, by the front-, garden-, or balcony door.
False is:
The dog is fed first, we must, symbolically, be thankful for any leftovers that the dog leaves us. He takes over control of all resources that are lying around, and energetically keeps us at distance from its bowl and does not allow us to take any food away from him.
Correct is:
Give your dog food only once a day. Leave the food for only 10 minutes on the floor and then remove the rest, without any comment, if the dog shows no interest. Do not allow the dog to approach the food without first eye-to-eye-contact. If the dog tries to get to the food before you allow it to, then simply block his way. As soon as the dog gives you its attention, eye-to-eye-contact, then allow it to eat. You must always have control over all resources. Never allow the dog to have free control over food, even treats i.e. bones, pigs ears etc. must be given under your full control in that you keep hold on one end. Don’t try to take anything out of the dogs mouth! Take a relaxed hold by the collar; place your open hand under its snout without touching the object, as soon as it has released the “prey”, praise the dog with a treat. Always stay calm and patient with this practice.
False is:
The dog marks its territory, not only outside but also inside the house. This can also show itself through uncleanliness in the house.
Correct is:
As long as the dog lies in its basket, or on its mat, it is has no possibility to defecate or “mark” within the house, because it is under supervision. A dog that is allowed to roam uncontrolled around will eventually take it upon itself to “mark” its territory. Often the reason for defecating inside the house is due to excessive stress outside.
False is:
When out for a walk the dog is always trying to keep the group together, in that it runs in front, to the side, and behind, constantly controlling, and does not permit anyone to leave the group.
Correct is:
Your dog should be kept on its leash and be by your side when out for a walk. It should not wonder back and forth, controlling the group. If the dog attempts to pull on the leash, do not yank it back, just block its path by stepping in front it, without any verbal communication. (If you hold the leash behind your back it does not have the freedom to go in front of you). As soon as the dog reacts to this movement and looks at you, then return to your original position and continue to walk on. So long as the dog stays parallel to you, give it a treat as an acknowledgement that it has learnt where it should be, and carry on.
False is:
When we want the dog to perform something it tries to manipulate us, in that it skilfully uses what we see as a form of surrender, so we often relinquish ours demands.
Correct is:
In the first few days resist the temptation to coddle the animal. In the event of a sign of exceptional behaviour give it a short sign of affection, i.e. by stroking it, alternatively praise should be made by giving it a treat. The dog should be brushed and checked as to its health for approximately five to ten minutes per day. Allow the dog to take treats from your hand while you are giving it a check-up. Connect the leash to its collar and take a firm grip, so that the dog does not have the chance to distance itself from you during this time. If it starts to get on your nerves, (i.e. by showing signs of “false surrender”), then return this action by getting on the dogs nerves, and remove all food. When the dog calms down then allow it access to its food. Any place where the dog can lie, that is above floor level, i.e. couch or bed, is absolutely taboo.
False is:
If out for a walk the dog tries to decide in which direction we go. A) By pulling on the leash or B) makes us wait while it sniffs a scent etc.
Correct is:
Several times a day train your dog for at least ten minutes; a) with an exercise that it already knows, then b) a new trick or one that it knows but is not confident with, and, c) finally with a drill that it can positively perform. In the first week this should take place inside the house, in the second and third weeks this can take place while walking your dog. The importance in these exercises is that you should consider exactly what you wish your dog to do. Each drill should be performed in quick succession and the dog should also react accordingly. If the dog starts to pull on the leash, abruptly change direction or stand still. If the dog starts to sniff around, i.e. posts, in the grass etc, then stand between the dog and what it is paying attention to, as soon as the dog understands that you are in control of the area, by giving you eye-to-eye contact, then praise the animal.
False is:
The dog starts to protect property and “pack” members (i.e. you and your family) without being requested to, against visitors or other animals. This makes the dog loud, irritating, and often aggressive.
Correct is:
The responsibility of the “pack” is yours alone. When you receive visitors take the dog, on the leash, with you to the door and let it sit or lie next to you, open the door and greet your guests. If the dog starts to take over control by getting up and checking who is there, physically force it backwards, wordlessly. When the dog starts to retreat and stops advancing then praise it for this reaction.
False is:
When out for a walk the dog runs forward and ignores your calls for it to return, by this it is showing you that it considers itself to be the “Alpha” in the group, and will make its own decisions.
Correct is:
It is useless to start shouting and screaming out commands that the dog will ignore. Alone through the minimum of speech and the increase in body language the attention of the dog will be intensified. Practice attentive training using a short leash and treats, until the dog freely and regularly gives you eye-to-eye contact, up to a distance of 1 yard (1 metre). When the dog has mastered this, then you can start to extend the distance. At irregular intervals toss the dog small treats, thus retaining the eye-to-eye contact and therefore its attention. Only when the dog has accepted you as leader can you remove the leash and let the dog walk free. When performing this training go where the dog can be distracted, i.e. in a park where there are bikers, joggers, other dogs etc.
False is:
If you try to encroach on its “Alpha” position, this could result in that the dog reacts in a form of self-defence, even to the point of attacking other pack members, including humans.
Correct is:
Several times a day show your dog a treat, holding this in your fingers to the side of you, as soon as the dog makes eye-to-eye contact give it the treat, without verbal comment. Through this training the dog will build a strong dependence on you, it will learn that all resources for survival are under your control. Restrict the amount of free space, wherever you go with the dog always put it on the leash, even if it is just to go into the garden. A dog that has too much (affection, food, “toys”, space,) sees no reason to show you any respect. The more success it has through its aggressive behaviour, the more aggressive it will become. NEVER punish a growling or snarling dog as it will stop growling and attack immediately.
Learning targets:
- The dog must learn that we determine when and what it is allowed to do.
- It must learn to obey at all times, even in frustrating and unpleasant situations.
- It must learn that in all situations it can trust our judgment, then WE stand above it, in the hierarchy,
and give it protection.
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